Re- building the Ford Pinto V6 2800 cc This was for my 76 Pinto But ended up in my 79.

 This rebuild took me a couple months I think. I was building this for my 76 but as it turns out I needed it for my 79 wagons. ( Im working on the wagon now.) I bought this engine from a guy who assured me that it was good.🙈🙉🙊 I took the oil pan off the day I got it home and the oil pickup was full of blue silicone pieces. The lower timing gear ( the big one) had several missing teeth. You can see, in the first picture that the valves were shot as well.  BTW I just recently found all these pictures. I lost a couple Memory cards worth.

I tried to show the inside of the water jacket in the front left corner. There were 3 YES Three oild freeze plugs in the water jacket. It took me 2 days to get them out. I had to wedge them in and bend them, then grab them with needle nose pliers

My new set of valves, they were about 40 bucks then and haven't changed in price much since.

The first time through with the hone. I was lucky the cylinders were in good shape. Considering the rest of the engine. 

Overall it came out well. It is not a high-horsepower engine. I think it's about 120 HP all in. I wanted the V6 because I am going to tow a small camper with it. 

Lucky for me I still had the Corvette to keep the manuals on. it was a good pinto parts holder.

I did a complete valve job and each cylinder held fluid over night .

The crank going in is the last picture I found for the assembly. 

Cleaning the heads and lapping the valves on a 2.8 V6 ford pinto

I took the engine apart some time ago and I am now getting to the clean and rebuild stage. The valves were shot.

Crack in the valve this was the worst one

I I loaded up my cart and got to it . Purple power from the dollar store did a surprisingly good job Ill spare you the details of scrubbing and spraying and having grease water and soap sprayed up my nose.

Then back to the work bench and I spent some time with the dremel and several brass wire wheels.

Now I need to lap the new valves its a simple process. get the tool the tool the compound and the valves and get to it. I watched so many videos of people who all claimed either they were experts or just guessing. Here is the way I do it. i cant say its the best way but it works.
1. clean everything with prep all or any wax, grease oil remover.
2.I use my gun cleaning rod and swab to do the valve guides
3. I put some compound on the valve on the lip then oil the guide and the stem.
4, Put the valve in and attach the tool.
5. I spin it until the noise changes and it gets quiet.
6. lift turn 1/4 turn and spin again until the noise stops. I repeat this 3 times on each valve.
Then clean and repeat on the next one. I test the work by dropping in both vales in the valve bowl  then filling it with fuel or alcohol. If they hold liquid with just the weight of the valve its done. Don't forget to put a spark plug in. As I said this is how I do it. I don't build engines for a living and my rebuilds have always been stock or just a small amount of  modification.

That is all there is too it keep the compound on the lip don't get it in the guide, I did a final clean with break-free and the gun cleaning rod , then coated it all with wd40 until i assemble it.

Please feel free to comment.