his was a pretty good day for the Pinto Suspension. Well, it started out good but it was a lot of work to get the parts on. I also have a sway bar and new end links and new bushings, I can't find those pictures yet.

In between cursing the day pintos were made, I hooked up an auto fuel line cleaner. I looped them and filled them with solvent. I had a large glass jar as a reservoir, another missing picture.

Nice new rubbers for the springs. New Pinto leaf springs as well.

They did look like they were worn out but the difference in stiffness was amazing. It was more like I remembered it to be.

This is the original as it came off the car

After a small amount of work blasting, rust converter and paint.

 

76 Ford Pinto Floor Repair. Fiberglass POR-15 Welding and Rust Treatment - Repair

 I got this Pinto in Mid June 2011. I had it running and yard driving in just a week or so. The first thing I did was gut the inside. I removed everything I could without making it undrivable. I had just a small amount of floor rust to repair. I put the driver's seat in so I could move the car.

The rear passenger side under the back seat had some small holes just about 1/4 inch. At that time I had just learned about POR-15. I got a couple cans.

As you can see the passenger floor was in perfect shape. I scrubbed it clean and removed any surface rust.

The entire floor ended up coated in POR-15 after I used Rust mort

Some of the floor looked perfect.

This looked a lot worse than it really was. I wire-brushed most of this rust off and treated it. No holes.

Those 1/4-inch holes got a bit bigger. I had to get creative on this repair.

This is behind the driver's seat, right-hand rear hole. I was going to just weld in a bit of sheet metal but there seemed to be flexing some so I added some angle iron for support.

Re- building the Ford Pinto V6 2800 cc This was for my 76 Pinto But ended up in my 79.

 This rebuild took me a couple months I think. I was building this for my 76 but as it turns out I needed it for my 79 wagons. ( Im working on the wagon now.) I bought this engine from a guy who assured me that it was good.🙈🙉🙊 I took the oil pan off the day I got it home and the oil pickup was full of blue silicone pieces. The lower timing gear ( the big one) had several missing teeth. You can see, in the first picture that the valves were shot as well.  BTW I just recently found all these pictures. I lost a couple Memory cards worth.

I tried to show the inside of the water jacket in the front left corner. There were 3 YES Three oild freeze plugs in the water jacket. It took me 2 days to get them out. I had to wedge them in and bend them, then grab them with needle nose pliers

My new set of valves, they were about 40 bucks then and haven't changed in price much since.

The first time through with the hone. I was lucky the cylinders were in good shape. Considering the rest of the engine. 

Overall it came out well. It is not a high-horsepower engine. I think it's about 120 HP all in. I wanted the V6 because I am going to tow a small camper with it. 

Lucky for me I still had the Corvette to keep the manuals on. it was a good pinto parts holder.

I did a complete valve job and each cylinder held fluid over night .

The crank going in is the last picture I found for the assembly. 

Rust conversion and undercoating on my 76 Pinto

 This is still back in 2012. Thw car is complete well mostly complete.

After pressure washing, scrubbing, and treating the underneath of the car, I used Barrier Bond and coated it all. 

The Barrier Bond converted any rust and I painted the entire underneath with black Rustoleum. Then I used a brush and 2 quarts of undercoating from Rustoleum also. 

Getting started with undercoating there is a big "EB" between the uni-body rail and the transmission tunnel I still don't have a clue what it's for.

I went to town on the undercoating. I made sure that every corner and bracket was done.